Streets of Fire
There is fire on the streets of Hanoi.
It's beating down from above and reflecting back up from below. Temperatures are peaking in the capital and the midday walk to lunch is a scorcher. Hand fans are waving, umbrellas are shading folks from the sun and eyes peer out from cool, darkened cracks in the streetscape. There is a general reluctance to go out. Even the traffic is in a strange state of sedation in July.
But the heat's no reason to go hungry. If I collapse with heatstroke, I will do so on a full stomach.
A stomach stuffed with a specialty from Phu Ly, a town in Ha Nam province. This dish is just a regional variation on a theme really. Its foundation is pre-prepared sheets of banh cuon, a steamed rice pancake which can be eaten straight from the steamer all over Hanoi. Here the sheets are bought elsewhere, cut up into ribbons and loosened in a bowl with a bit of oil. Handfuls of moorish dried shallots are scattered amongst the white before porked grilled roadside is placed on top.
It's essentially bun cha meets banh cuon.
On the side is a basket of incredibly fresh mint and coriander and a dipping sauce consisting of fish sauce, vinegar, lime and fresh chilli which I doctor up myself at the table.
My table is next to the fire where fat fueled flames are licking over the curb, dangerously close to a line of motorbikes. My mercury rises and patches of perspiration develop on my shirt as this light, satisfying lunch slides down.
This place is hot on my list of current lunchtime favourites.
Lunch Money
One serve banh cuon, one iced tea - 20,000VND (USD$1.12, AUD$1.40)
Banh Cuon Phu Ly
64 Bich Cau
Dong Da District
Hanoi



















